Chardonnay Unveiled: Tradition meets Innovation as Harvest Nears
As we approach the 2024 harvest, there is excitement in the air at our winery. Chardonnay, the varietal that has become synonymous with elegance and complexity in our region, is likely to be our first harvest of the season, potentially beginning the week after Labor Day. This moment offers a perfect opportunity to reflect on our approach to crafting Chardonnay and to delve into the history, techniques, and philosophy that have shaped our crafting of this wine.
The Legacy of Chardonnay in Livermore Valley
The story of Chardonnay in Livermore Valley is rich and storied, dating back to the late 19th century. The first documented planting of Chardonnay in California was by Charles Wetmore in 1882, right here in Livermore Valley. Wetmore, a visionary viticulturist, obtained his cuttings from the esteemed vineyards of Burgundy, France, and shared them with other growers in the valley. This pioneering effort laid the foundation for what would become one of California’s most iconic wine varietals.
The evolution of Chardonnay in Livermore Valley was further propelled by Ernest and Herman Wente, who recognized the potential of this varietal in our unique terroir. Over the course of thirty years, the Wente family perfected the cultivation of Chardonnay vines ideally suited to the valley’s growing conditions. Their efforts resulted in vines capable of producing wines with a true sense of place—a hallmark of great wine.
Today, the Wente clone is the foundation of approximately 80 percent of all Chardonnay produced in California. This legacy underscores the importance of Livermore Valley in the history of California winemaking and serves as a testament to the region’s enduring influence on Chardonnay production.
Crafting Chardonnay: Our Approach
At Occasio Winery, we believe that Livermore Valley Chardonnay shines brightest when it is crafted with patience and precision. Our approach is deeply rooted in traditional winemaking techniques, yet we are always guided by the latest science and research to enhance the quality and expression of our wines.
Once the primary alcoholic fermentation is underway in the barrel, we initiate malolactic fermentation about halfway through the process. This timing is crucial to our winemaking approach, as it serves a dual purpose. First, it enhances the likelihood of successful completion of malolactic fermentation, essential in achieving the rounded, balanced mouthfeel we desire in our Chardonnay and in achieving microbial stability.
Second, by introducing malolactic fermentation during this phase, we better manage the levels of diacetyl in the wine. Diacetyl is the compound responsible for the buttery flavors that are often associated with Chardonnay. While some level of this characteristic can be desirable, excessive diacetyl can overwhelm the wine’s more subtle notes and mask its natural fruit expression. By carefully controlling the timing and progression of malolactic fermentation, we ensure that our Chardonnay retains its complexity and elegance without being dominated by buttery flavors.
In addition to this careful timing, we also stir the lees— the sediment of yeast and grape particles that settles at the bottom of the barrel. Lees stirring, or bâtonnage, is a traditional technique that serves multiple purposes in the aging of Chardonnay. One of the key benefits of this process is the release of mannoproteins into the wine. These mannoproteins play a vital role in improving tartrate stability, which helps prevent the formation of unsightly tartrate crystals in the bottle, a natural byproduct that can occur in wines that have not undergone proper stabilization.
Furthermore, mannoproteins contribute to color stability, helping to preserve the vibrant hues of our Chardonnay as it ages. This is particularly important for maintaining the wine’s visual appeal over time. Additionally, the release of mannoproteins during lees stirring has the effect of reducing astringency in the wine, resulting in a smoother, more refined texture that enhances the overall drinking experience.
By integrating these time-honored techniques into our winemaking process, we craft a Chardonnay that not only reflects the unique character of Livermore Valley but also stands out for its balance, complexity, and longevity. Each step, from the timing of malolactic fermentation to the careful stirring of the lees, is designed to bring out the best in our wine, ensuring that every bottle of Occasio Chardonnay offers a true expression of terroir.
Aging
Barrel fermentation and extended barrel aging are cornerstones of our Chardonnay production. Livermore Valley Chardonnay, with its rich fruit character, benefits from the structure and complexity that barrel fermentation provides. Unlike the austere, high-acid Chardonnays of the west Sonoma Coast, our Chardonnay is crafted to have “a little more flesh on its bones,” making it both approachable and age-worthy.
We carefully select barrels from different French cooperages. each barrel contributing unique characteristics to the wine. We also use a mix of new and used barrels. New barrels impart bold flavors quickly, while neutral barrels, used multiple times, offer subtle nuances. The right mix of new and used barrels allows us to extend the wine’s aging on its lees, giving it the potential to age gracefully for years to come.
Time Equals Flavor: The Slow Crafting of our Chardonnay
At Occasio Winery, we believe that time is an essential ingredient in crafting great wine. This philosophy is embodied in our philosophy, “Time = Flavor,” which underscores the importance of patience and precision in winemaking. Just as a traditionally cured ham or an artisanal loaf of bread owes its depth of flavor to time, so too does our Chardonnay.
Our commitment to time is reflected in every aspect of our winemaking process. From the moment the grapes are harvested to the final bottling, we allow the wine to develop naturally, without rushing any stage of its evolution. This slow approach ensures that the purity of our Livermore fruit is preserved, and the wine’s true character is allowed to shine.
Chardonnay in Livermore Valley: The Future
As we prepare for the 2024 harvest, we are excited to continue our exploration of Chardonnay’s potential in Livermore Valley. The region’s unique climate and terroir provide an ideal environment for growing Chardonnay that is both expressive and age-worthy. Our commitment to traditional winemaking techniques, combined with a deep understanding of the science behind the craft, ensures that each vintage of our Chardonnay is a true reflection of the land from which it comes.
In recent years, there has been a growing recognition of Livermore Valley’s role in California’s Chardonnay history. As more winemakers embrace the region’s potential, we believe that Livermore Chardonnay will continue to gain the recognition it deserves, both for its historical significance and its exceptional quality.
At Occasio Winery, we are proud to be part of this legacy, and we are committed to crafting Chardonnay that honors the past while looking forward to the future. As we approach this year’s harvest, we invite you to join us in celebrating the enduring allure of Livermore Valley Chardonnay—a wine that, like the best things in life, only gets better with time.
